The Birth of Beauty
 
 
 
Did you ever wonder how a GB Jewelers custom ring is made?
 
This is your chance to find out.   We'll show you each step in the process of creating this 14K gold gents ring that features a  2.45 ct. purplish-blue natural sapphire and two .20 ct. natural pink sapphires.
 
 
When designing a custom ring, we first determine the types of stones and material to be used.  In this case, our customer chose a 2.45 ct. Purplish-blue Sapphire and two .20 ct. Pink Sapphires.   Time is taken to discuss what designs work best with the materials and, most importantly, the tastes of the person who will wear the piece.   Good communication is critical in designing stage.
 
 
After spending time exploring possibilities and determining the customer's likes, it is necessary to help the customer visualize what the finished product will look like.   We do this through drawings of ideas developed from the discussions with the customer.
 
 
 
After conceptual drawings are complete, we present them to the customer and allow them to choose a design.   In this case, the customer chose the top design pictured.
Then the design is carved from a piece of wax.   At GB Jewelers, teamwork ensures our customers receive the finest craftsmanship.   Tim, Jim and the other goldsmiths each have their individual strengths.   At each step, we choose the goldsmith who is best suited for the task.
 
 
 
The wax model is prepared for casting in precious metal.
 
With the wax models mounted to the rubber base and the flax connected to the base, we are now ready to fill the flask with investment (plaster-like material).   Note that in this flask, we have added other waxes along with the custom piece on which we are working.
 
 
Investment is mixed with water to make a material similar to plaster.
 
 
Timing is very important at this point in the process.   The investment must be poured into the casting flask before it gets too thick and hardens.
 
 
Once the investment is poured, it is essential to get all of the bubbles out of the investment or they can show up as little gold spheres in your casting.   The flask is placed under a plastic bell jar and the vacuum pump is turned on.   This removes the bubbles from the investment.
 
 
Investment is allowed to cure (harden) for a minimum of two hours.
 
 
This is what the raw castings look like after all of the investment has been washed off.
 
 
The first step in cleaning up the casting involves using files, sandpaper, and numerous little grinding tools that are put into the flexible shaft.
 
 
At this stage, the goal is to perfect the shapes and lines in the ring as well as smooth out the surface. If too much is ground away, you may ruin the ring and have to start over.
 
 
 
After the surface has been shaped and smoothed, the polishing process begins to bring the jewelry to life.
 
 
A more detailed polishing is done with the flexible shaft.
 
 
 
Now, the polished ring is ready for detailing and stone setting.
 
 
Our engraving is done by hand using a binocular microscope to make sure it is done perfectly.
 
 
The engraving in this piece is a simple line around the center stone.   This makes for a subtle difference, but adds that extra touch of life to the piece.    Now, Jim will do the final fitting and carve the seats in which the stones will be set.
 
 All three of the stones in this ring are flush set.   This means the stones are inlaid directly into the metal without prongs.   It is very comfortable to wear and very durable.
 
 
Extra care must be taken while flush setting a stone.   This method requires very precise hammering so as to avoid hitting and breaking the stone.
 
 
In this piece, we have a lot of metal to move in order to set the stone.    The anvil provides the solid mass underneath the ring while it is being hammered.   Notice that both Tim and Jim are involved with this procedure.   Two hands are not enough.   Tim holds the ring in place while Jim operates the hammer and peg.
 
 
We recognize the importance of setting a stone correctly.  Over 90% of the jobs coming into our repair department are stone setting problems.   The more care put into the original set job and the more time taken to make sure it is done perfectly, the less problems the customer will face in the future.
 
 
At this point, Tim puts the final details on the lines and cleans up the areas where the stones are set.   The difference between "a beautiful piece" and "an absolutely gorgeous piece" lies in the meticulous attention to detail.   Tim applies the final presentation polish, and...
 
A Beauty is born.

 
 
 
 
top of page
 
 
 
GB Jewelers, Inc.
Under the Clock Tower
675 SE Marlin Avenue, Suite 1  /  PO Box 999
Warrenton, OR 97146
800-869-1481

Latitude:  46.159033 / Longitude: -123.9055280
 
 
Store Hours: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Monday - Saturday
 
Copyright 1974